I've now been telling this story for a week and a half longer than the trip actually took. At this rate I'll be cought up with my life 200 years after I die. As to the chicken thing, I'd been told the first time I was in the Ukraine you always need to eat a roast chicken on the train, but we never found one, or they were out, or the store just closed. So on possably the last Ukrainian train I'll ever ride on (and deffinately the last one for Shanti) we finally got one. Mmmmmm, chicken.