To recap, from the coast we rode to Gjirokastr, a charming city and a World Heritage site. A few parts of the castle are fenced off, but most of it is just inaccessible. This is the way history should be, something you can touch and realize it was a real fortress and not just a story. Of course then you also need to trust people not to destroy it.
Another defining feature of Albania for me was the universally excellent English translations, despite the fact that almost no one spoke it. In fact the most common second language seemed to be Italian, which didn't help us much.
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